Albert Mann Pinot Blanc/Auxerrois 2007, Alsace, France
Pinot Blanc wrestles with Sylvaner and Muscat amongst the poor cousins of grape varieties in Alsace; its chief use is in the sparkling Cremant d’Alsace, although blended with the similar Auxerrois it also finds its way into some attractive still wines that, in the hands of good producers (Rolly Gassman and Schoffit’s Vielles Vignes are two I can recommed from experience ) can show a lot of character. This example is a little more subtle than either of those wines, and works you around to its charms after a little bit of effort, showing melony, peachy fruit, honeysuckle and a little spice on the nose, with a nice fresh palate of a creamy, open texture, some nice citrus peel depth and even a little minerality. It is not an aristocratic wine, but it has some Alsatian style and makes a good representation of this mild-mannered grape. 15.5/20
Pasanau Germans Ceps Nous 2007, Priorat, Spain
I’ve not tried a great number of wines from Priorat in the past; partly as, through accident more than design I don’t end up drinking a great deal of Spanish wine, and partly because prices in this desirable corner of Catalonia tend to be pretty high. Nevertheless, my eyes settled on this bottle after a good few minutes in the excellent new Bottle Apostle in Victoria Park, and it was taken home along with some stupendous bangers from the Ginger Pig butchers. It is predominantly Grenache, blended with smaller proportions of Mazuelo, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and aged in 3-4 year old French and American barrels for 6-8 months. An ‘assemblage’, for sure.
And a very well-made one at that. Quite a sultry nose of rich plum and raspberry fruit, concentrated and ripe with a little smoky cocoa. Impressive fruit concentration right through the palate, but remaining suave and structured, with a lovely tang of acidity coming through. Best in another 3-5 years I would say. No surprise that this is a Parker favourite - it’s a classy bit of winemaking. A crowd-pleaser, certainly, if not the most original and idiosyncratic wine ever made. 16/20
The Food and Wine Section's summer break
25/08/09 09:27
Just a quick note to say that this portion of the
website has been taking a brief sabbatical; quite
simply I’m up to other things and not tasting that much
of the stuff at the moment! What looks like an
excellent wine shop, The Bottle Apostle, has opened up
around the corner from where I have just moved to and I
shall undoubtedly start putting up some things soon....
Domaine Phillipe Gilbert Menetou-Salon 'Les Renardières' 2007, Loire Valley, France
Apart from a couple of things picked up and glugged with friends I hadn’t really bought anything serious for a while; suddenly the sun came out, a trip to the Theatre of Wine was coming on and I headed down to the countryside with this in tow. Can’t believe I managed to stay away from that shop for 2 months!
Sunshine is really the only thing that gets me reaching for Sauvignon Blanc. I usually find that, especially with many examples from New Zealand, South Africa and even Chile, the pungency and particularity of the flavours make it a bit of an awkward one with food. Not so with the Loire, though - you may get all of those idiosyncrasies, but in good examples you’ll get finesse, weight and balance that won’t be constantly arguing with whatever is on your plate.
There are only 2 acres of vines used to make this wine, which hails from an appellation near the (often over-rated) Sancerre. This is fermented in oak, one-third of which is new each year. I don’t think I’ve yet had a barrel-fermented Sauvignon that ‘sits’ as well as this - at best I usually end up thinking the oak influence is pleasant if unnecessary.
This shows a fabulously layered, deep nose, with peach skin and clementine sweetness, pure elderflower, meadowy flowers and even tarragon, all drawn together with some smoky, nutty warmth. The palate is crunchy and tangy, full of whitecurrant and peach but with a creamy weight and a chiselled, chalky finesse- there is a great line and balance, with some nutty complexity on the finish. Outstanding, and worth every penny of the £21.99 if you can find the occasion. 17.5+/20 Theatre of Wine